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Throw a centime and you'll hit a bistro in Paris. It's not easy to stand out from the crowd in this culinary capital, but some bistros have that little something extra that makes them worth a special trip. Yet what, you may ask, makes a bistro a bistro? Typically, they have meat-heavy menus — usually written on a chalkboard — listing succulent steaks as well as innards, all with liberal helpings of frites, served on checkered tablecloths in cramped quarters. Here are four favorites:

Le Gavroche In the heart of the city's financial district, Le Gavroche is unpolished in the good sense and attracts bankers for lunch and locals for dinner. Order the pavé de rumsteak with pepper sauce, and stick around for both a cheese course and a sweet dessert. Be sure to say hello to Popeye, the three-legged setter- spaniel mutt who moodily mans the entrance. 19 Rue Saint Marc; second arrondissement; tel: (33-1) 42 96 89 70

Le Bon Saint-Pourçain Just steps from the north entrance of the Luxembourg Gardens, this cozy little place is run by François Bonduel, a former waiter of the famed Deux Magots café, with his daughter Fabienne. The name comes from the Saint-Pourçain vineyard in central France, a favorite of Kings and Popes going back to the 13th century. Start off with the leek salad, then try the cassoulet. Given its proximity to the Senate, the crowd can be a mix of Left Bank intellectuals and artists — along with a lot of legislators. 10 Bis Rue Servandoni; sixth arrondissement; tel: (33-1) 43 54 93 63

Polidor A Left Bank fixture since 1845, Polidor has welcomed such illustrious guests as James Joyce, Jack Kerouac and Ernest Hemingway. With its wood paneling and mustard yellow paint, the decor is classically 19th century — except for the anachronistic harley parking only street sign. Try it for lunch, where an appetizer, daily special and dessert cost around $16. Otherwise the roast chicken and guinea fowl are recommended, along with the fondant au chocolat, smothered in English cream. 41 Rue Monsieur le Prince; sixth arrondissement; tel: (33-1) 43 26 95 34

L'Autre Café Once you get past the Who's on First? humor of a place called The Other Café ("Let's go here." "Nah, I prefer The Other Café." "Which one?"), try this dependable, spacious place for lunch. While it has the requisite bistro dishes of duck, tartare and steak, it's more of a modern bistro-plus, offering such varied fare as chicken skewers, enchiladas and even a wok dish. Generous, dependable portions and quick service in the 11th arrondissement, a quartier that many locals consider Paris for the Parisians. 62 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud; tel: (33-1) 40 21 03 07

• GRANT ROSENBERG
• Four Paris bistros worth making a special trip for